Category Archives: Oceana

Storm Force 9!

Sailing to the Cape of Good Hope 3The Albatross Winning the Race - Southern OceanAn Odd Iceberg - Southern OceanSailing Into the Storm 1 - Southern OceanSailing Into the Storm 2 - Southern OceanSailing Into the Storm 3 - Southern OceanSailing Into the Storm 4 - Southern OceanSailing Into the Storm 5 - Southern OceanStorm Force 9!Our New FigureheadSailing Across the Vast Southern Ocean 1Sailing Across the Vast Southern Ocean 2April Fools Day - Bark EuropaExplorer Keith on the Mizen Mast - Bark EuropaSailing Across the Vast Southern Ocean 3Sailing Across the Vast Southern Ocean 4Sailing Across the Vast Southern Ocean 5Sailing Across the Vast Southern Ocean 6Sailing Across the Vast Southern Ocean 7Sailing Across the Vast Southern Ocean 8Sailing Across the Vast Southern Ocean 9Sailing Across the Vast Southern Ocean 10Wandering Albatross with the Bark EuropaSailing Across the Vast Southern Ocean 11An Albatross Over the Southern OceanExploring Tristan da Cunha 1Exploring Tristan da Cunha 2Exploring Tristan da Cunha 3Exploring Tristan da Cunha 4Exploring Tristan da Cunha 5Exploring Tristan da Cunha 6Exploring Tristan da Cunha 7Exploring Tristan da Cunha 8Exploring Tristan da Cunha 9Exploring Tristan da Cunha 10Exploring Tristan da Cunha 11Exploring Tristan da Cunha 12Exploring Tristan da Cunha 13Exploring Tristan da Cunha 14Exploring Tristan da Cunha 15Exploring Tristan da Cunha 16Exploring Tristan da Cunha 17Exploring Tristan da Cunha 18Exploring Tristan da Cunha 19Exploring Tristan da Cunha 20Exploring Tristan da Cunha 21Exploring Tristan da Cunha 22Exploring Tristan da Cunha 23Exploring Tristan da Cunha 24Exploring Tristan da Cunha 25Exploring Tristan da Cunha 26Exploring Tristan da Cunha 27Exploring Tristan da Cunha 28Exploring Tristan da Cunha 29Exploring Tristan da Cunha 30Exploring Tristan da Cunha 31Exploring Tristan da Cunha 32Sailing to the Cape of Good Hope 1Sailing to the Cape of Good Hope 2Sailing to the Cape of Good Hope 4Sailing to the Cape of Good Hope 5Sailing to the Cape of Good Hope 6Sailing to the Cape of Good Hope 7Sailing to the Cape of Good Hope 8Sailing to the Cape of Good Hope 9Sailing to the Cape of Good Hope 10Sailing to the Cape of Good Hope 11Sailing to the Cape of Good Hope 12The Cape of Good Hope - Africa
An important change happened as we started the next leg of our voyage. Up to that point we had all been nothing more than adventurous tourists who had chosen an interesting and somewhat unique way to see the sights of Antarctica and South Georgia. It is true that we had learned a lot about sailing a tall ship and we had definitely had some amazing adventures that fall well outside of the realm of a cruise ship, but it wasn’t until we had left South Georgia in our wake that we stopped being tourists and became sailors. We were no longer on a sightseeing trip, we were on a sailing voyage and we had nearly three thousand nautical miles of some of the stormiest oceans on Earth ahead of us. More than fourteen hundred nautical miles separated us from our next landfall, a tiny volcanic spec in the South Atlantic called Tristan da Cunha, and the charts spoke of mountainous waves and powerful storms as being the normal conditions. Continue reading »

Across the Vast Southern Ocean

Across the Vast Southern OceanFrozen Windows in the Deck HouseCoated in Ice 1Coated in Ice 2Sailing Through the Iceberg Belts 1Sailing Through the Iceberg Belts 2Sailing Through the Iceberg Belts 3Sailing Through the Iceberg Belts 4Sailing Through the Iceberg Belts 5Sailing Through the Iceberg Belts 6Following in Shackleton's WakeExcellent Sailing in the Southern OceanAn Albatross on the Southern OceanRosalita Bay 1, South Georgia IslandRosalita Bay 2, South Georgia IslandRosalita Bay 3, South Georgia IslandRosalita Bay 4, South Georgia IslandKing Penguins on the Salisbury Plain, South Georgia Island 1King Penguins on the Salisbury Plain, South Georgia Island 2King Penguins on the Salisbury Plain, South Georgia Island 3Fur Seal - Salisbury Plain, South Georgia King Penguins on the Salisbury Plain, South Georgia 4King Penguins Rookery on the Salisbury Plain, South Georgia 5King Penguins on the Salisbury Plain, South Georgia 6King Penguins on the Salisbury Plain, South Georgia 7Attack of the Skua - Salisbury Plain, South Georgia 4Seal Mummy - Salisbury Plain, South GeorgiaKing Penguins and the Bark Europa - Salisbury Plain, South GeorgiaWandering Albatross 1 - Prion Island, South Georgia Wandering Albatross 2 - Prion Island, South Georgia Exploring Prion Island, South Georgia In the Zodiac - South Georgia Stunning Sunset Near Prion Island, South GeorgiaWhaler Cemetery - Prince Olaf Harbor, South GeorgiaView From the Cemetery - Prince Olaf Harbor, South GeorgiaPrince Olaf Harbor, South GeorgiaHulk of the Brutus - Prince Olaf Harbor, South GeorgiaExploring Prince Olaf Harbor, South Georgia 1Exploring Prince Olaf Harbor, South Georgia 2Sailing Along South Georgia's Coast 1Sailing Along South Georgia's Coast 2King Penguin - Fortuna Bay, South GeorgiaBark Europa and King Penguins - Fortuna Bay, South GeorgiaFace Off! - Fortuna Bay, South GeorgiaElephant Seals - Fortuna Bay, South GeorgiaInquisitive King Penguins 1 - Fortuna Bay, South GeorgiaInquisitive King Penguins 2 - Fortuna Bay, South GeorgiaInquisitive King Penguins 3 - Fortuna Bay, South GeorgiaFortuna Bay, South GeorgiaIn the Footsteps of Shackleton 1 - South GeorgiaIn the Footsteps of Shackleton 2 - South GeorgiaIn the Footsteps of Shackleton 3 - South GeorgiaIn the Footsteps of Shackleton 4 - South GeorgiaIn the Footsteps of Shackleton 5 - Lake Creen, South GeorgiaIn the Footsteps of Shackleton 6 - Stromness, South GeorgiaIn the Footsteps of Shackleton 7 - Stromness, South GeorgiaIn the Footsteps of Shackleton 8 - South GeorgiaIn the Footsteps of Shackleton 9 - South GeorgiaIn the Footsteps of Shackleton 10 - Stromness, South GeorgiaIn the Footsteps of Shackleton 11 - Stromness, South GeorgiaIn the Footsteps of Shackleton 12 - Stromness, South GeorgiaIn the Footsteps of Shackleton 13 - Stromness, South GeorgiaStromness, South GeorgiaSailing Along South Georgia's Coast 3Sailing Along South Georgia's Coast 4Exploring Grytviken, South Georgia 1Norwegian Church - Grytviken, South Georgia Inside the Norwegian Church - Grytviken, South GeorgiaTome Creen Library - Grytviken, South Georgia A Hike to Maiviken, South Georgia 1A Hike to Maiviken, South Georgia 2A Hike to Maiviken, South Georgia 3A Hike to Maiviken, South Georgia 4A Scene Out of Africa - Maiviken, South Georgia Through the Window - Maiviken, South Georgia Shackleton's Grave - Grytviken, South GeorgiaParty On Deck - Prince Edward Point, South GeorgiaShackleton's Cross 1 - Prince Edward Point, South GeorgiaShackleton's Cross 2 - Prince Edward Point, South GeorgiaView from Prince Edward Point, South GeorgiaTalking with ShackletonShackleton's Grave 2 - Grytviken, South GeorgiaExploring Grytviken, South Georgia 2Exploring Grytviken, South Georgia 3Cobbler's Cove, South GeorgiaExploring Godthal Bay, South Georgia 1Exploring Godthal Bay, South Georgia 2Exploring Godthal Bay, South Georgia 3The Wreck of the Bayard 1 - Ocean Harbor, South GeorgiaExploring Ocean Harbor, South Georgia 1Exploring Ocean Harbor, South Georgia 2Exploring Ocean Harbor, South Georgia 3The Wreck of the Bayard 2 - Ocean Harbor, South GeorgiaExploring Ocean Harbor, South Georgia 4Exploring Ocean Harbor, South Georgia 5Sailing Along South Georgia's Coast 5Gentoo Penguin - Cooper's Bay, South GeorgiaA Skua - Cooper's Bay, South GeorgiaA Macaroni Penguin - Cooper's Bay, South GeorgiaA Circumsolar Halo - South Georgia IslandShaking its Golden Locks - Macaroni Penguin, South Georgia Island
It was a night like any other night in the vast Southern Ocean. The stars were hidden behind a veil of clouds, the moonless sky was as dark as India ink and it was so cold that the salty ocean froze to the deck in thick, slushy sheets. My watch group was serving the dreaded ‘dog’ watch from midnight to four. Under ideal conditions the dog watch could be a very pleasant time to be on deck, due to brilliant, moonlit seascapes and star-filled skies, but, on this particular night, danger was lurking in the darkness ahead of us and the lookouts stationed on the bow had to be very alert. Continue reading »

A Journey Back in Time

A Journey Back in Time - Neko HarborMy First Steps on Deck - Ushuaia, ArgentinaUshuaia LighthouseCrossing the Drake Passage on the Bark Europa 1Crossing the Drake Passage on the Bark Europa 2Crossing the Drake Passage on the Bark Europa 3A Fin Whale in the Drake PassageThere She Blows - Fin Whales in the DrakeAn Iceberg in the Drake PassageThe South Shetland IslandsProof that Penguins Can Fly - South Shetland IslandsA Glacier - The South Shetland IslandsGentoo Chick on Aicho Island, The South Shetland IslandsChinstrap Penguins - Aicho Island, The South Shetland IslandsGentoo Penguins - Aicho Island, The South Shetland IslandsThe Bark Europa - Aicho Island, The South Shetland IslandsAicho Island 1 - The South Shetland IslandsAicho Island 2 - The South Shetland IslandsAicho Island 3 - The South Shetland IslandsAicho Island 4 - The South Shetland IslandsAicho Island 5 - The South Shetland IslandsAicho Island 6 - The South Shetland IslandsAicho Island 7 - The South Shetland IslandsAn Elephant Seal on Aicho Island - The South Shetland IslandsAicho Island 8 - The South Shetland IslandsAicho Island 9 - The South Shetland IslandsAicho Island 10 - The South Shetland IslandsAicho Island 11 - The South Shetland IslandsHumpback Whales 1 - Bark Europa, AntarcticaHumpback Whales 2 - Bark Europa, AntarcticaHumpback Whales 3 - Bark Europa, AntarcticaHumpback Whales 4 - Bark Europa, AntarcticaHumpback Whales 5 - Bark Europa, AntarcticaHumpback Whales 6 - Bark Europa, AntarcticaBark Europa at Trinity IslandFur Seals at Trinity IslandCruising in an Iceberg Graveyard 1 - Trinity IslandCruising in an Iceberg Graveyard 2 - Trinity IslandCruising in an Iceberg Graveyard 3 - Trinity IslandCruising in an Iceberg Graveyard 4 - Trinity IslandCruising in an Iceberg Graveyard 5 - Trinity IslandCruising in an Iceberg Graveyard 6 - Trinity IslandA Leopard Seal - Trinity IslandCruising in an Iceberg Graveyard 7 - Trinity IslandCruising in an Iceberg Graveyard 8 - Trinity IslandSunset on the Bark Europa - Trinity IslandA Moon Over the Ice - Trinity IslandSailing South in Antarctica 1Sailing South in Antarctica 2The Wreck of the Gover Noren - AntarcticaSailing South in Antarctica 3Sailing South in Antarctica 4Sailing South in Antarctica 5Sailing South in Antarctica 6Sailing South in Antarctica 7Captain Klaas Keeping Watch - Bark EuropaSailing South in Antarctica 8Hunted by Leopard Seals 1 - Neko HarborNeko HarborHunted by Leopard Seals 2 - Neko HarborHunted by Leopard Seals 3 - Neko HarborThe Bark Europa - Neko HarborExploring Neko Harbor A Lone Penguin - Neko HarborLearning the Ropes - The Bark EuropaSailing South in Antarctica 9Bark Europa in Paradise HarborThe Ice Bridge - Paradise HarborArgentine Research StationSailing South in Antarctica 10Sailing South in Antarctica 11Sailing South in Antarctica 12Reflections 1 - AntarcticaReflections 2 - AntarcticaReflections 3 - AntarcticaReflections 4 - AntarcticaSailing South in Antarctica 12Sailing South in Antarctica 13Sailing South in Antarctica 14Sailing South in Antarctica 15The Bark Europa in AntarcticaThe Europa's FigureheadPort Lockroy Exploring Port Lockroy 1Exploring Port Lockroy 2Exploring Port Lockroy 3Exploring Port Lockroy 4Blue-Eyed Shags - Port LockroyA Gentoo Penguin - Port LockroyThe Seven Sisters - Port LockroyThe Bark Europa in Antarctica 1Sailing North in Antarctica 1The Bark Europa in Antarctica 2Icebergs 1 - Abord the Bark EuropaIcebergs 2 - Abord the Bark EuropaA Ghost Ship - The Shadow of the Bark Europa on IceIcebergs 3 - Abord the Bark EuropaIcebergs 4 - Abord the Bark EuropaA Face in the Iceberg - Abord the Bark EuropaA Close Encounter with Humpback Whales 1Climbing the Rigging - The bark EuropaA Close Encounter with Humpback Whales 2A Close Encounter with Humpback Whales 3Sailing North in Antarctica 2Sailing North in Antarctica 3Sailing North in Antarctica 4Sailing North in Antarctica 5Killer Whales!Sailing into Neptune's Bellows - Deception IslandExploring Deception Island 1Exploring Deception Island 2Exploring Deception Island 3Exploring Deception Island 4A Journey Back in Time-114.jpgExploring Deception Island 5Exploring Deception Island 6Exploring Deception Island 7Exploring Deception Island 8Skuas - Deception IslandA Fur Seal - Deception Island
My time in South America had come to an end. All that remained was to gather my things and walk down to the dock. I flashed my passport to the guard in the passenger terminal and he checked my name off of a passenger list, scanned my bags and said have a nice day as he directed me through the glass doors that led to the dock. It was easy to find my way from there, because the ship that would be my home for the next seven weeks stood out like a brilliant beacon, a living monument to the past, amid a sea of modern vessels. I walked past a large icebreaker and came to a stop at the quay site were my ship was moored. I was greeted by a few of the crewmembers and I was invited to come on board. In just a few steps I managed to travel more than one hundred years back in time, back to an age when sails ruled the seven seas. Continue reading »

Lunch in Sydney

Back in September, when I was finalizing all of my flight plans to get back home from Antarctica, I discovered that to get to Hawaii, where I was planning to meet my family for Thanksgiving, from Christchurch I had to fly through Sydney, Australia. The plane ticket that I was flying home on was a government issued one and the rules that came with it said that I would only be able to make one stopover without dramatically increasing the cost of the ticket, which I would have had to pay for myself. Working with the travel agent that was assigned to the Antarctic Program, I discovered that I would be able to have a long layover in Sydney without any additional expenses with the exception of the visa fee. That was great news, because I would be able to spend just under fourteen hours on the ground in Sydney, arriving in the morning and leaving in the evening. I sent an e-mail to my friend Kate, who lived in Sydney, and asked her for some help regarding what to see and do there. In the end I decided to see the opera house and the Rocks in the morning and meet up with Kate for a long lunch in Darling Harbor – I was going to Sydney for Lunch! Continue reading »

Farewell New Zealand, for Now

Purakaunui Falls, Catlins, New ZealandNugget Point, Catlins, New ZealandCadbury World, Dunedin, New ZealandOlveston, Dunedin, New ZealandGeorge Street, Dunedin, New ZealandSaint Paul\'s Church, Dunedin, New ZealandShag Colony, Otago Peninsula, New ZealandKelp at Taiaroa Head, Otago PeninsulaRoyal Albatrosses at Taiaroa Head, New ZealandYellow-eyed Penguin at Otago Peninsula, New ZealandSea Lion at Waipapa PointTwo Yellow-eyed Penguins Avoiding a Sea Lion, Otago PeninsulaHooker\'s Sea Lion at the Otago PeninsulaWaipapa Point Lighthouse, Catlins, New ZealandCurio Bay Jurassic Forest, Catlins, New ZealandPetrified Stumps at Curio BayA Closeup of a Petrified Stump at Curio BayPorpoise Bay and a Kayaker, Catlins, New ZealandLake Wilkie, Catlins, New ZealandThe Lush Shore of Lake Wilkie, CatlinsHooker\'s Sea Lion, Catlins, New Zealand

 

I woke up bright and early in the morning at my hostel in Te Anau. There was a noticeable chill in the air, but the sky was clear and blue. I quickly packed everything up and made my way to the office to check out and wait for my shuttle. The chill was due to a storm that had formed the evening before as I finished my day-hike on the Kepler Track. The storm blanketed all of the mountains across the lake with a thin layer of snow, which created a winter-wonderland vista where there had been a brownish-green expanse of rolling mountains. It is amazing to me how a simple layer of snow can change an already beautiful landscape into a spectacular one – I love snowstorms because it is nature’s way of creating wilderness from an already tamed landscape, even if it is only temporary. Continue reading »